Reclaiming A-“Bandon”-ed History

Our activities today and yesterday have converged around ancestors and history.  Yesterday we set  out for the Kennedy Homestead in New Ross.  Definitely off the beaten path and not filled with tourists.  It is the location of the home Patrick Kennedy left as a famine emigrant only to have his great-grandson, John F. Kennedy return in 1963 as President.  During that visit his cousin, Mary Ryan, hosted a tea for him, gave him a kiss on the cheek and said, “Welcome home, Jack.”  The two sat on an old car seat together and had tea.  It is the story of so many emigrants, forced to leave their countries and turning their backs on the past to face the future.    Families splintered by those who stayed and those who left.  The homestead is quaint, simple, and a Kennedy family member still resides there.

as always, click to enlarge

This morning we ate a delicious breakfast and packed out of Killiane Castle but not before spending some time with the main innkeepers, Paul and Patricia.  I say main because it is a family affair and next year they will celebrate 100 years of family ownership, a sort of Ireland “century” farm.  You can see in their faces it is a labor of love.

Before we left, Paul took us to meet their two “rescue” donkeys, Kobe and Flagon.  Wexford has a donkey rescue service and they adopted these two.  Evidently, donkeys grow emotionally attached to each other and these two move as a pair.

Then we were off on our longest drive of the trip, 3.5 hours to Bandon, County Cork.

Graham was the surname of Wayne’s maternal side of the family and he was told they emigrated to Canada from Bandon during the famine, eventually settling in the midwest.  He went on a search that started in a pub where we were told to go to the library next door.  There, a helpful librarian whose maternal surname was Graham was eager to help.  She leaned toward us and in sotti voce inquired, “Protestant or Catholic?”  “Catholic, very Catholic”, replied Wayne.  The librarian hemmed and hawed a little and confessed that Graham was a Protestant surname.  She checked some references and found nothing but gave us directions to the Bandon Heritage Center across the foot bridge.

It was previously the Protestant church but was abandoned and lay dormant for decades.  The community put together a committee and turned it into the Heritage Center.  While nosing around we were told that Bandon was populated by Protestants sent over by Liz I, thus becoming a Protestant stronghold in Ireland.  It was a walled city and Catholics were banished outside the walls.  On market days, the pigs would be allowed inside the walls but not the Catholics.  There is still a saying, “Bandon, the town where the pigs are Protestant.”

Inside it’s filled with birth, baptism and burial records dating back centuries.  Plus very helpful personnel.

We checked the Catholic record books, nothing.  Then checked the Protestant books – Glory! Grahams baptized and buried in Bandon.

Achieving a possible reclamation of abandoned Graham history we sputtered away,  our Nissan Micra purring like a sewing machine.

Now we are safely ensconced for the evening at the Dunmore House Hotel looking out our window.

No Damage to the Automobile or Our Emotions

After a harrowing experience at the Avis rental desk where our diligence resulted in avoiding outrageous overcharges,   a cancellation, a new reservation, a vastly improved rental rate, calls to credit cards for insurance coverage and a final call to the US Avis division, we were off to the Wexford area.  Another sunny day in Ireland found us driving our aptly named Nissan “Micra” on the left side with a singular navigation hitch easily resolved, passing fields and hedgerows until we arrived fully intact at our accommodation, Killane Castle and Farm.  Yes, the Iowa farm boy is staying on a working farm in Ireland. Cows, a castle in ruins, a dog, and a beautiful country house.  Instead of plugging in pictures I put together a slide show best viewed if you hit the play button then bottom right button and expand to full screen.

Thank Goodness I Brought My Library Card

We booked a formal tour of Trinity College Library and the Book of Kells this morning.  We were the first group let in when the library opened so had optimum viewing of the vellum created circa 800 AD. Of course, no pictures allowed of the scripture books but we were free to take as many snaps as we wanted without a flash in the Long Room.   Imagine walking up a set of stairs, you turn, the smell of old books starts to permeate the air, your eyes see this, and you hear a fellow tourist state, “Well this looks like somethin’ out of a Harry Potter movie.”

After a walking tour of Dublin Castle, we sat down for lunch at Chez Max, a cozy little bistro.

Then back to see the State Apartments at the castle and a closer inspection of the grounds.

Tomorrow we pick up a car and start our drive around the coast.  Driver and navigator are meditating for peace before we attempt to conquer the wrong side of the road.

College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Queen Elizabeth near Dublin

That is the official name of Trinity College, founded in 1592 by Liz I.  It is at the top of every Dublin destination guide and rightly so.  Mobbed by tourist and guides dressed in Harry Potter costumes it is steeped in history and culture.  After a late leave from the hotel we set out late morning to explore every nook, cranny and door we could open.

Seems the class of 2022 is just arriving.

The center of the campus, Parliament Square.

Then, the Chapel, completed in 1798 and still open to the pubic today.

Ornate floors with heating grills.

The seating and stalls, clearly meant to highlight rank and position, some just benches others with property doled out per armrest and seats of honor.

Unbeknownst to us, a bride and groom were about to walk the aisle and they do really still wear morning coats and hats.

The best view of a column is out a window.

Being built over hundreds of years the architecture is remarkably varied.

Perhaps some ideas for our front door?  Same address.

What’s a Saturday afternoon without a game of Cricket?

We made our way out the Lincoln gate and stopped in at the National Gallery of Ireland, stunningly renovated in 2017 and boasts a Vermeer and Caravaggio before having lunch.

We decided to walk back to our hotel through college grounds in the  late afternoon sun.  Seems centuries old windows require modern food products to prop them open.

Still, who could resist this light.

And the beauty of trees centuries old.

Hard to top this day, but the cake still had to be iced.  As if on cue  bagpipers and drummers appeared in Parliament Square.   A catering chef filled in the information they were rehearsing for a dinner this evening honoring fire brigades and first responders.

Turns out it takes two to tune a bagpipe.

I’ll let them pipe me out for today.

My Pot of Gold, Okay Wedge of Gold

I found my pot of gold on St. Anne Street at Sheridan Cheesemongers.  Having a partner who likes to putter in the hotel room gives me the chance to explore local foodstuffs.  This place is heaven.

Walk in the front door and you are in an ambrosial room of cheese.

My eyes dilated at the selection of meats and cheeses.

I went right for the raw milk.

Came home with a small round of the Drumlin and a wedge of Derg Raw Milk cheddar.

I’ll make another stop Monday before we depart Dublin and not to worry, they have locations in Meath, Galway,  and Wexford.

 It appears we’re exiting Eire just in time.