Category Archives: Dublin

Reclaiming A-“Bandon”-ed History

Our activities today and yesterday have converged around ancestors and history.  Yesterday we set  out for the Kennedy Homestead in New Ross.  Definitely off the beaten path and not filled with tourists.  It is the location of the home Patrick Kennedy left as a famine emigrant only to have his great-grandson, John F. Kennedy return in 1963 as President.  During that visit his cousin, Mary Ryan, hosted a tea for him, gave him a kiss on the cheek and said, “Welcome home, Jack.”  The two sat on an old car seat together and had tea.  It is the story of so many emigrants, forced to leave their countries and turning their backs on the past to face the future.    Families splintered by those who stayed and those who left.  The homestead is quaint, simple, and a Kennedy family member still resides there.

as always, click to enlarge

This morning we ate a delicious breakfast and packed out of Killiane Castle but not before spending some time with the main innkeepers, Paul and Patricia.  I say main because it is a family affair and next year they will celebrate 100 years of family ownership, a sort of Ireland “century” farm.  You can see in their faces it is a labor of love.

Before we left, Paul took us to meet their two “rescue” donkeys, Kobe and Flagon.  Wexford has a donkey rescue service and they adopted these two.  Evidently, donkeys grow emotionally attached to each other and these two move as a pair.

Then we were off on our longest drive of the trip, 3.5 hours to Bandon, County Cork.

Graham was the surname of Wayne’s maternal side of the family and he was told they emigrated to Canada from Bandon during the famine, eventually settling in the midwest.  He went on a search that started in a pub where we were told to go to the library next door.  There, a helpful librarian whose maternal surname was Graham was eager to help.  She leaned toward us and in sotti voce inquired, “Protestant or Catholic?”  “Catholic, very Catholic”, replied Wayne.  The librarian hemmed and hawed a little and confessed that Graham was a Protestant surname.  She checked some references and found nothing but gave us directions to the Bandon Heritage Center across the foot bridge.

It was previously the Protestant church but was abandoned and lay dormant for decades.  The community put together a committee and turned it into the Heritage Center.  While nosing around we were told that Bandon was populated by Protestants sent over by Liz I, thus becoming a Protestant stronghold in Ireland.  It was a walled city and Catholics were banished outside the walls.  On market days, the pigs would be allowed inside the walls but not the Catholics.  There is still a saying, “Bandon, the town where the pigs are Protestant.”

Inside it’s filled with birth, baptism and burial records dating back centuries.  Plus very helpful personnel.

We checked the Catholic record books, nothing.  Then checked the Protestant books – Glory! Grahams baptized and buried in Bandon.

Achieving a possible reclamation of abandoned Graham history we sputtered away,  our Nissan Micra purring like a sewing machine.

Now we are safely ensconced for the evening at the Dunmore House Hotel looking out our window.

No Damage to the Automobile or Our Emotions

After a harrowing experience at the Avis rental desk where our diligence resulted in avoiding outrageous overcharges,   a cancellation, a new reservation, a vastly improved rental rate, calls to credit cards for insurance coverage and a final call to the US Avis division, we were off to the Wexford area.  Another sunny day in Ireland found us driving our aptly named Nissan “Micra” on the left side with a singular navigation hitch easily resolved, passing fields and hedgerows until we arrived fully intact at our accommodation, Killane Castle and Farm.  Yes, the Iowa farm boy is staying on a working farm in Ireland. Cows, a castle in ruins, a dog, and a beautiful country house.  Instead of plugging in pictures I put together a slide show best viewed if you hit the play button then bottom right button and expand to full screen.

Thank Goodness I Brought My Library Card

We booked a formal tour of Trinity College Library and the Book of Kells this morning.  We were the first group let in when the library opened so had optimum viewing of the vellum created circa 800 AD. Of course, no pictures allowed of the scripture books but we were free to take as many snaps as we wanted without a flash in the Long Room.   Imagine walking up a set of stairs, you turn, the smell of old books starts to permeate the air, your eyes see this, and you hear a fellow tourist state, “Well this looks like somethin’ out of a Harry Potter movie.”

After a walking tour of Dublin Castle, we sat down for lunch at Chez Max, a cozy little bistro.

Then back to see the State Apartments at the castle and a closer inspection of the grounds.

Tomorrow we pick up a car and start our drive around the coast.  Driver and navigator are meditating for peace before we attempt to conquer the wrong side of the road.

College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Queen Elizabeth near Dublin

That is the official name of Trinity College, founded in 1592 by Liz I.  It is at the top of every Dublin destination guide and rightly so.  Mobbed by tourist and guides dressed in Harry Potter costumes it is steeped in history and culture.  After a late leave from the hotel we set out late morning to explore every nook, cranny and door we could open.

Seems the class of 2022 is just arriving.

The center of the campus, Parliament Square.

Then, the Chapel, completed in 1798 and still open to the pubic today.

Ornate floors with heating grills.

The seating and stalls, clearly meant to highlight rank and position, some just benches others with property doled out per armrest and seats of honor.

Unbeknownst to us, a bride and groom were about to walk the aisle and they do really still wear morning coats and hats.

The best view of a column is out a window.

Being built over hundreds of years the architecture is remarkably varied.

Perhaps some ideas for our front door?  Same address.

What’s a Saturday afternoon without a game of Cricket?

We made our way out the Lincoln gate and stopped in at the National Gallery of Ireland, stunningly renovated in 2017 and boasts a Vermeer and Caravaggio before having lunch.

We decided to walk back to our hotel through college grounds in the  late afternoon sun.  Seems centuries old windows require modern food products to prop them open.

Still, who could resist this light.

And the beauty of trees centuries old.

Hard to top this day, but the cake still had to be iced.  As if on cue  bagpipers and drummers appeared in Parliament Square.   A catering chef filled in the information they were rehearsing for a dinner this evening honoring fire brigades and first responders.

Turns out it takes two to tune a bagpipe.

I’ll let them pipe me out for today.

When You are a Tourist, You Do Unabashedly Touristy Things

So, how to start the morning?   Climb aboard a big green bus with a bunch of strangers and ride in the open air and sunshine of a special Dublin day.

Here’s the route, click to enlarge (if you are patient and really want to see it), there is no better way to get a sense of the city and the relation of streets, alleys, parks, and the history that binds.

We took the ride completely around the loop and then before starting on our second roundtrip disembarked at Dawson St.  for a bite to eat.  Sat street side and  let the sites and sounds of the street accompany lunch.

I took a jaunt around the sidewalk corner and found this treasure.

Then we walked off lunch in  St. Stephens Green, true, gem in the city.

Is it just me, the angle of light, the local flora, but do these not seem like the most intense begonias on earth?

Ancient cities have ancient churches and Dublin is no exception with Christ Church Cathedral from the Norman period and St. Patrick’s Cathedral founded in 1191.

Christ Church

St. Patrick’s

And how it may have looked to eyes of history.

Across the street a school of songs hundreds of years old.

And up the street, their library.

On the walk between the two churches we explored some housing.

This obviously was for the workers.

This one for the more artistic.

And what of the Working Girls?

An Irish lace curtain caught in the wind.

And a very old door still opens to the air.

Then we wound around the alleys and roads amid the 70-acre Guinness Storehouse where they ferment 3.5 billion “pints” each year.  Embedded in the first floor entrance floor is the 9,000 year lease signed by Arthur Guinness in 1795.

Calatrava’s fingerprints seem worldwide.

And we’ve all heard about the tech boom in Ireland.  Here’s what a tiny 12.5% corporate tax rate will do for your city.  All cranes, glass and steel claiming the dockside for business.

Meanwhile, we made it back to the ranch with a good dose of sun -kissed vitamin D warming our foreheads.